Rodriguez is the acknowledged king of Nuevo Latino, and the acknowledged home of Nuevo Latino is south Florida. A few examples:
Argentango Grill
1822 S. Young Circle, Hollywood
954/920-9233
5084 Biscayne Blvd., Miami
(opens in July)
This regional mall fast-food specialist launched in 1987 and now numbers 250 units in 29 states and nine countries. It opened this first-for-them full-service sensation in 2002, one with super ceviche and grilled sea bass, native sausages with real oomph, perfect pastas and "The Longest Steak in the World" -- a foot or more of tender, juicy skirt steak. From July 2002 to January 2004, Argentango claims to have sold enough skirt steaks to stretch from Hollywood to Orlando. The French fries are also worth the trip. No wonder the owners cloned a second, set to open in July in Miami's Design District. Serving lunch and dinner with entrees $8 to $15 daily.
Chima Brazilian Steakhouse
2400 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale
954/712-0580
Of course Brazil, Latin America's largest and most important country, and home to some 200,000 recent arrivals in Miami-Dade, Broward and Palm Beach counties, is strongly represented with several of the classic rodizio stunners, including my favorites, Porcao in The Four Ambassadors (801 Brickell Bay Drive, Miami, 305/373-2777), Brazilian Tropicana in Pompano Beach (410 N. Federal Highway, 954/781-1113) with a sensational floor show, and a new one, Gaucho Rodizio in Lighthouse Point (4060 N. Federal Highway; 954/784-7667), a Florida mission from a company with more than 15 successful operations back home.
Chima, one of this year's Top Newcomers, definitely has the best location in a beautifully illuminated landmark of many years' standing with many previous tenants with pockets deep and deeper. Chima has put its rotisserie grills up front and brought in expert rotisserie chefs to man them and, at least in the beginning, a veteran crew to do the serving, the slicing, the smiling and the explaining -- about the origins of the company in central Brazil's Uberlandia. The salad bar is a dieter's dream, and the presentation of the highly recommended Cachaca cocktail is a joy to behold -- and drink. All-you-can-eat rodizio dinners are $30.
Fritanga Monimbo
7901 N.W. 103rd St., Hialeah Gardens
305/556-5956
7173 117th Ave., Kendall
305/598-9040
9612 Fontainebleau Blvd., Miami
305/220-3791
13710 S.W. 56th St., Miami
305/382-5292,
529 N.W. 12th Ave., Miami
305/326-0747
Nicaraguan quick stops for shredded beef in spicy tomato sauce, corn tortillas, plantain chips, fried pork chunks and weekend "baho," a pot of brisket marinated in a hearty tomato, onion, sour orange sauce. Open daily with entrees $4 to $9.
Inca Grill
515 N.E. 20th St., Boca Raton
561/395-3553
The Peruvian pioneer in these parts opened by Carlos and Nadine Acuna seven years ago, a pretty place all pink and white, with a skilled kitchen brewing special soups -- sailor soup with shellfish is my favorite -- and handling with great care the half-dozen sea bass preparations along with whole fried snapper, seafood stews given some Creole punch and meat courses with traditional chunks of beef cooked in oil with onions and peppers, tomatoes and garlic. For lighter fare, the scallop and shrimp salad peppered with scallions and served on perfectly ripe top-quality avocados is a marvel. Lunch and dinner, with entrees $10 to $19, are served daily -- but it's closed on Mondays.
La Molienda Salvadorian Restaurant
119 W. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale
954/564-6961
Simple fare at budget-stretching prices with superior soups, whole fried fish, terrific tamales and seafood stews that are all home-brewed with overdoses of TLC. Open daily for lunch and dinner with entrees $6 to $11.
Mango Tango
512 N. Federal Highway, Boynton Beach
561/734-9610
Opened last October and promising Nuevo Latino cuisine, this Peruvian import features Lomo, Pescado Macho and Cau Cau Mariscos (strips of sirloin sauteed with onions and tomatoes, grilled fillet of corvina smothered with shrimp, squid, octopus, mussels and seafood stew). Other headliners are Puerto Rican-grilled pork chops glazed with mango and presented with smashed and fried green plantains; Ecuadorean green and white fettuccine with marinated seafood, mushrooms, green and yellow chile in a garlic-spiked white wine sauce; Argentine Angus sirloin plated with mashed sweet potatoes and green plantains; Nicaraguan churrasco steak with gallo pinto, white rice and red beans; Cuban-grilled whole fish stuffed with seafood puree in a spicy sauce. Lunch and dinner are served daily with entrees $9.50 to $16.
Mi Lindo Ecuador
4860 N.W. Seventh St., Miami
305/446-2006
Ecuadoreans Mercedes and Gilberto Castro opened this cafe in 2000 to feature such native exotica as "arroz con menestra de lenteja y carne asada," white rice and lentils with white cheese and grilled beef, "seco de gallina," spiced chicken stewed with onions and beer, and "seco de chivo," goat in beer-spiked red sauce enlivened with onion, pimentos and chili powder. Serving lunch and dinner daily with entrees from $7 to $18.
RESTAURANTS AROUND THE STATE
SOUTHEAST
Fort Lauderdale
Bongusto! Ristorante
5640 N. Federal Highway
954/771-9635
Chef-owners Antonio and Anne Cerone have been doing their very special thing since 1988, expanding the space and developing the decor to its present state of refined pinkness. Dinner, $15 to $30.
SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY
Tampa
Catch 23
10103 Montague St. (West Park Village Town Center)
813/920-0045
The back room could have come directly from the islands with its citrus and fruit sauces -- the daiquiri-infused cream sauce with plantains for the scallops is a real winner. Dinner, $14 to $20.
CENTRAL
Orlando
Cedars
7732 W. Sand Lake Road
407/351-6000
The place for Middle Eastern fare, but don't overlook the fillets of fish and quail in a Greek lemon-garlic sauce. Lunch, $7 to $10, and dinner, $10 to $18.
NORTHEAST
Jacksonville Beach
Max's
1312 Beach Blvd.
904/247-6820
Start with Cajunized quail or New Zealand greenlip mussels and continue with a splendid rack of lamb or fresh fish fillet stuffed with crabmeat. Lunch, $8 to $10, and dinner, $14 to $21.
NORTHWEST
Tallahassee
Cypress Restaurant
320 E. Tennessee St.
850/513-1100
Tallahassee natives David and Elizabeth Gwynn add to the joys of dining out in our capital, serving "sophisticated Southern regional cuisine." Lunch, $8 to $12, and dinner, $18 to $25.