Café Heidelberg
150 N. U.S. 1, Tequesta 561/746-0014
"Gott sei dank!" ("Thank God!") for Dieter and Heather Weber, who keep the schnitzels and strudel soaring, the duck roasting the old-fashioned way and the sauerbraten soaking just right so you can raise your steins, filled with one of the four German beers on tap. Dinner, $9.95 to $19.95, served Tuesday through Saturday.
Captain Charlie's Reef Grill
12846 U.S. 1, Juno Beach 561/624-9924
A happily casual throwback to simpler times with a non-stop menu that starts with such tempters as garlic-zapped clams, oversized conch fritters, Cuban crab cakes with black beans and rice and at least 30 other appetizers to work through while you decide if you want your fillet of fresh fish blackened, broiled, deep-fried, sauteed or stuffed. Or maybe you want to stay landlocked with chicken and steak. Dinner, $6 to $20, served nightly.
Charley's Crab
1000 N. U.S. 1, Jupiter 561/744-4710
An outpost of the old Chuck Muer empire strategically planted smack on the Intracoastal with indoor-outdoor seating and a menu featuring most of the old favorites -- gazpacho and black bean soup, eggplant crepes, macadamia encrusted mahi-mahi, crab-stuffed rainbow trout, potato-coated salmon and Boston scrod. Dinner, $12 to $50, served daily, and there's a highly regarded Sunday brunch for about $10.
The Crab House
1065 N. A1A, Jupiter 561/744-1300
I really liked this super setting across from the oldest structure in Palm Beach County -- the 1860 lighthouse -- when it was Harpoon Louie's; and as long as the current owners don't block out the view or close the porch, it stays on my list. A busy place with mass-produced seafood and a pleasant staff. Dinner, $7 to $30, served daily.
Ganim's Juno Beach Café
13967 U.S. 1, Juno Beach 561/622-1533
The corner patio is the perfect place to start your day with an order of UEPs, Uncle Eddie Pancakes, or a bit of fruit and nut-honey granola, cinnamon-raisin French toast or a three-egg blue crab omelet with fresh scallions. Come back for lunch and stretch your mouth over a burger with grilled pineapple, bacon and Swiss cheese bound by honey-mustard. Find three or four friends and order the $25.95 belt-busting Breakfast Feast bursting with a dozen eggs and everything else from the menu. Breakfast and lunch, $3 to $7, and dinner, $9 to $15, closed Sundays.
Giacomo's Italian Ristorante & Café
157 N. U.S. 1, Tequesta 561/575-5559
Of course there have to be Italian escapes, and this is one of the best, a classic trattoria setting bursting with all the good old Italian-American standbys, from pizza and popular pastas to eggplant parmesan, shrimp Francese, veal Marsala, calamari and cannoli, happily prepared by chef-owner Giacomo Guagliardo. Dinner, $16 to $35, served Monday through Saturday.
Marc's Chophouse
337 E. Indiantown Road, Jupiter 561/747-2522
In addition to the namesake chops and steaks, there are important Italian accents, including roasted peppers softened with provolone on a bed of arugula, sauteed portobellos with creamy gorgonzola sauce, jumbo shrimp scampi, carefully herbed chicken and lovingly prepared fresh fish. Dinner, $12 to $35, served nightly.
Molto Bene
17370 Alternate A1A, Jupiter 561/748-7717
This newest and best-dressed of the Italians on my list reflects the Cal-Italia influences of Los Angeles. The farinaceous fare is fabulous, and I respect the TLC handling of seafood, welcoming the seasonal specials on fresh Maine lobster. Lunch, $4 to $18, served Monday through Friday, and dinner, $16 to $35, nightly.
O'Brian's
12860 U.S. 1, Juno Beach 561/626-5880
A surprise setting hidden behind lush tropical plantings, with a comfy white porch as a staging area and almost-formal furnishings inside, where diners work through a standard All-American steakhouse menu with prime cuts of beef, oversized pork chops, real mashed potatoes and humongous desserts, including strawberry shortcake. How All-American can you get? Dinner, $14 to $25, served nightly.
Sinclair's
Jupiter Beach Resort 5 N. A1A, Jupiter 561/745-7120
The class act of the area, with panoramic ocean-front viewing, formal appointments and with a marvelous history that goes back to Chicago and famed restaurateur Gordon Sinclair. His heirs have simplified the show, but chef Michael Russell still gets raves for his crepes of shredded duck breast mingled with Manchego cheese baked with cilantro and served with chipotle sauce and yellow tomato salsa as well as his veal tenderloin forestiere, prime sirloins and a harvest from the deep served on angel hair pasta. Dinner, $22 to $50, served nightly.
Surrey St. Station
16891 Jupiter Farms Road, Jupiter 561/746-2331
There's a country inn feel to this hideaway in the middle of horse country that's chock full of antiques and collectibles gathered by Stephanie and Kevin Hiles, the chef-proprietor who also collects recipes and obviously delights in perfecting them for his public. Everything from grilled portobellos zapped with gorgonzola to peppered filet mignon, from garlic-suffocated chicken breast to paella and penne mingled with mussels, andouille sausage and more chicken. For finishers, there's a parade of baked-out-back pies. Dinner, $12 to $30.
Tabica Grill
901 Indiantown Road, Jupiter 561/747-0108
How can I resist an informal strip-mall oasis where the special of the day is a pair of tightly bundled bratwurst with good kraut and great mashed potatoes? The noontime menu also has an excellent apple-walnut freckled chicken salad with cinnamon-honey dressing and Cuban pork sandwich with jicama slaw. Start your dinner tribute with sesame-dotted tuna seared with wasabi and served with pickled ginger and wakame salad or Cajun eggrolls with blackened chicken, onions, cheddar and goat cheeses kissed by avocado, as prelude to a Cuban pork chop marinated in garlic and cilantro and served with all the trimmings. Or try grilled Pacific salmon or grouper coated with chunks of macadamias, pistachios and walnuts covered with mango beurre blanc. Lunch, $6 to $11, served Monday through Friday, and dinner, $9 to $23, nightly.
Restaurants Around The State
SOUTHEAST - Fort Lauderdale
River House
301 S.W. Third Ave. 954/525-7661
Watch the boat parade from the patio or porch as you work through a well-executed menu topped by sauteed blue crab cakes, honey-glazed salmon and, in conclusion, baked Alaska with raspberry sorbet and vanilla bean ice cream. Dinner, $9 to $50.
SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY - Sarasota
Zoria
1934 Hillview Ave. 941/955-4457
Chefs Ryan Boeve and Arthur Lopez split from Ophelia's on the Bay to open this contemporary American café with a menu to match, adding a few Asian inserts to such old standbys as meatloaf. Lunch, $6 to $11, dinner, $11 to $24.
CENTRAL - Orlando
California Café Bar & Grill
8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail 407/816-5555
One great California café in the state certainly merits another, like this clone of Fort Lauderdale's Top 200 honoree, emphasizing the same insistence on freshness and culinary creativity, spirited and informed service, and felicitous setting. Lunch, $5 to $15, dinner, $7 to $25.
NORTHEAST - Jacksonville
Wilfried's 24 Miramar
4446 Hendricks Ave. 904/448-2424
An Art Deco delight with such specialties as ostrich prepared any which way but on wing, and a Beggar's Purse rich with shrimp, scallops, salmon and lobster wrapped in thin-thin phyllo and blessed with brandied lobster sauce. Dinner, $16 to $50.
NORTHWEST - Pensacola
Jackson's
Palafox at Zaragossa Street 850/469-9898
Gracing the ground floor of a Civil War survivor facing Plaza Ferdinand, this home of "Crab Cake King" Irv Miller has superb seared tuna, pan-roasted lobster, steaks and maple custard bread pudding spiked with bourbon. Dinner, $8 to $35.