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Not Just Chop Suey

Question: When is a Chinese restaurant not a Chinese restaurant? Answer: When it's Miami Beach's China Grill (404 Washington Ave., 305/534-2211), the 3-year old, 390-seat designer's dream of a successful mission to the sun-soaked provinces from New York City. Linda and Jeffrey Chodorow are the owners; corporate chef is Ephraim Kadish, guru of cross-cultural Cal-Asian innovation. The menu bristles with citrus-spiced Peking duck salad, lobster pancakes cooked in coconut milk and freckled with shiitakes, Szechuan-spiced beef and lamb spareribs - all dramatically served in generous portions. Weekday fixed-price lunches $19.98; dinner, entrees $14 to $30, daily. Other favorite redefinitions of traditional Chinese cuisine include:

China Bay Buffet

2402 N. University Dr.

954/430-5709

Pembroke Pines

Capriccio Plaza

Bistro was replaced by buffet at this all-you-can-eat emporium opened by the Taiwanese group that started its U.S. mainland career in Winter Park with China Plaza Buffet (276 S. Orlando Ave., 407/647-8553), then opened in Boca with China Taiwan (3400 N. Federal Hwy., 561/368-8803). All cater to heavies and cost-cutters. The let-it-all-hang-out luncheon spreads are pegged at $6, on Sunday $7; dinner spreads run $9.49 Mon.-Thurs. and $11.49 Fri.-Sun. when they add crispy duck and snow crab legs. Spareribs, crawfish, mussels and ginger crabs are only on the dinner menu, but there's always salmon, beef, chicken, pork and Chinese veggies stir-fried before your eyes, plus shrimp to peel or served in lobster sauce, sesame and honey-garlic chicken, moo goo gai pan, seafood in tea sauce, and several soups and desserts.

China Cafe

7635 S. Dixie Hwy.

561/585-7777

West Palm Beach

Palm Coast Plaza

The claim to fame is a dinner seafood buffet featuring snow crab, shrimp, mussels, fried fish and baked salmon, along with 95 other temptations including pot stickers and roast duck. Lunch, $5 to $9; dinner, $11.

China Taipei

5200 N. University Dr.

954/746-0255

Lauderhill

This 240-seater boasts Mongolian barbecue. Choose beef, chicken or pork and watch a chef wielding giant chop sticks stir-fry your choice with Chinese veggies in one of three sauces. This location and the Delray Beach operation (Taipei China, 4801 Linton Blvd., 561/637-0011) serve lunch and dinner, $9.50 to $10.50.

Christina Wan's Mandarin House

2031 Hollywood Blvd.

954/923-1688

Hollywood

The wonderful Wans opened in 1966 on Miami's S.W. 8th St., then moved to Hollywood and Fort Lauderdale where Davie Wan and his daughters keep tradition alive. One daughter serves sushi and sashimi at Wan's Sushi, (3327 Sheridan St., 954/987-1388) and the other runs the show with great skill and charm at this gem in the heart of reborn downtown Hollywood. Lunch and dinner, entrees $7 to $20, daily.

Du Barry Chinese Buffet

1091 S. University Dr.

954/423-8088

Plantation

This newcomer backs up its boast that it's "The Biggest and the Best Value Buffet in Town!" with more than 200 choices, a full-scale liquor bar and a 400-seat dining room. Roast beef and turkey are among the occidental headliners, but there are also low-sodium and vegetarian options along with sushi and, on weekends, dim sum. Lunch and weekend brunch; dinner, $12 to $15.

Emerald Coast

4519 N. Pine Island Road

954/572-3822

Sunrise

Richard Chin and Ray Huang had seven years' experience running a Chinese buffet in Toronto before opening this spinoff in 1991, the first in south Florida. Now they're trying to stay ahead of the pack with a hundred tempting treats, introduced by a superior salad bar and concluded with best-of-the-bunch desserts. Lunch and dinner, $13 to $16, and special holiday spreads. Last Thanksgiving's knockout was priced at $19.

Grand China

1900 N. Federal Hwy.

954/921-0188

Hollywood

This is a great training ground for future buffet bellies and the stuff-yourself-silly set. The lunch spread is $6; dinner is $10 to $11. Sixty-plus items are prepared in open cooking areas; weeknights there are grilled steaks; the Fri.-Sun. menu offers crab legs.

Ming Court

9188 International Dr.

407/351-9988

Orlando

Ming is the thing at this pagoda-crowned tribute to ancient China. The dragon over the dining room is longer than the tables; there are koi ponds outside and fish tanks inside, but no eat-all-you-want displays. This is the place to re-create the banquet at the climax of the movie "Eat Drink Man Woman." And it's the place to go after a trip to Splendid China. Start with shrimp cakes, followed by the Szechuan Flaming Wok. Lunch and dinner, entrees $10 to $30, daily.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro

17455 Biscayne Blvd.

305/957-1966

North Miami Beach

8888 S.W. 136th St.

305/234-2338

South Miami The Falls Shopping Center

High-tech, local links of an Arizona chain serving Chinese cuisine explained by a well-trained staff in an East meets West, multimillion dollar achievement. Florida partner in the pair is Art DeAngelis, putting to good use his 19 years' with the Brinker restaurant operation, which includes Chili's. Start with Chang's chicken or vegetables in "Soothing Lettuce Wrap," followed by such classics as mu shu chicken or pork, kung pao chicken, lemon pepper shrimp, sauteed scallops or one of the vegetarian plates. Lunch and dinner, entrees $8 to $13, daily.

Rainbow Palace

2787 E. Oakland Park Blvd.

954/565-5652

Fort Lauderdale

Ming is not the thing here, but Italian marble from a previous owner trying to create a grande ristorante. His loss was a gain for the talented crew that moved from New England and imported chefs from Hong Kong to produce fare that lives up to the challenge of the decor. Try the Hunan popcorn shrimp in ginger sauce, roast duck with shrimp pasta and crispy duck christened with Grand Marnier. Lunch, Thurs.-Fri.; dinner, entrees $12 to $30, daily.

Yip's Chinese Seafood House

1327 S. State Road 7

954/978-9477

North Lauderdale

Tam O'Shanter Plaza

This well-lit, large room sparkles with unusual treats from abalone to fish maws, shark fin soup to sea cucumber in oyster sauce. There are more routine offerings, if you consider sauteed fresh conch, crispy deep-fried whole red snapper with a ginger-tomato sauce, or steamed escarole with New Zealand green lip mussels routine. Lunch and dinner, entrees $8 to $30, Mon.-Sat.

Restaurants Around The State

SOUTHEAST

DELRAY BEACH

Hoot Toot & Whistle

290 E. Atlantic Ave. 561/243-0140

Casual sidewalk cafe, bar and lounge up front, and in the back a fun re-creation of the Orient Express. Whistling raves for the fresh seafood, mixed grill and good wines. Dinner, entrees $17 - $27.

SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY

NAPLES

Chardonnay

2331 N. Tamiami Trail 941/261-1744

Fabulous French food, easily among the best in the South, served in a garden-surrounded gazebo. Dinner, entrees $19 - $30.

CENTRAL

LONGWOOD Enzo's on the Lake

1130 S. Hwy. 17-92 407/834-9872

Grandissimo setting on the water and a menu that's been delivering the Italian classics with considerable finesse for the past 18 years. Lunch and dinner, entrees $16.50 - $39.50.

NORTHEAST

ST. AUGUSTINE

The Raintree

102 San Marco Ave. 904/824-7211

The setting is a converted Victorian manse that pleases all comers with an eclectic menu ranging from rack of lamb to back bayou beauties like jumbo shrimp jamba-laya. Dinner, entrees $9 - $27.